The Heart of the Town
You truly cannot visit Oxford without going to the Historic Courthouse Square, also called “the Square.” It’s the city’s central hub and home to almost all social and economic life in Oxford.
Shopping on the Square should start with a visit to what’s widely recognized as the oldest department store in the South and the 16th oldest in the nation, Neilson’s, which has been around almost as long as the city itself. Current proprietor William Lewis Jr. continues to guide the store with the basic philosophy laid out by J. E. Neilson: quality, style, and dependable service. Additionally, Etta B & Co. offers a diverse selection of specialty gifts, such as gourmet foods, jewelry, work from area artisans, and handcrafted Etta B Pottery.
Literature-Loving Community
Oxford is also steeped in rich literary history. William Faulkner lived most of his life here, writing from his residence—tucked into a local neighborhood about a mile from the Square—on a sprawling, wooded estate he called Rowan Oak, named after the rowan tree, a Celtic symbol of safety and peace. Faulkner is a key contributor to Oxford’s identity, and tours of the house are available to the public so guests can see his typewriter, writing on the wall, and more to get to know the Southern icon.
Novelists like Willie Morris, John Grisham, Barry Hannah, and Larry Brown have also called the place home at one time or another. But this Mississippi soil has nurtured more than just wordsmiths— figurative painter Jere Allen and folk artist Theora Hamblett are just two of many notable natives and past residents.
Creating a legacy of its own, world-renowned Square Books opened more than 30 years ago as an independent bookstore highlighting a variety of works, with an emphasis on authors with ties to Mississippi. Since then, it has hosted countless writers, from Toni Morrison to Etheridge Knight, and it has expanded several times over, adding locations for Square Books, Jr. and Off Square Books to secure its reputation as one of the nation’s best independent booksellers. An upstairs café and balcony at the main store in the heart of town add to the one-of-a-kind browsing experience.
Restful Nights
After a day of shopping and exploring, head to The Z, a bed-and-breakfast run by sisters and Ole Miss graduates Annie and Brittany Zeleskey. This unassuming B&B has it all: convenient location, beautiful furnishings, comfortable accommodations, and an incredible breakfast. If a traditional yet high-end hotel is more your speed, you’re sure to enjoy Chancellor’s House or The Graduate Oxford. The former recently reopened its kitchen with Chef Joel Miller (formerly at Ravine). The latter is an all-things-Oxford-themed hotel with a go-to rooftop spot, The Coop, that has panoramic views of the Square, making it an ideal place for a predinner snack and drink.
